With the amount of time and effort you put into your knitting, you want your finished project to look fabulous.
That’s where blocking comes in. Learning to block your knits is an essential skill.
With the transformation of blocking knitting, you’ll experience a wow Factor!
What Is Blocking In Knitting Terms?
In knitting, crochet and textile crafts, blocking is the process of wetting/soaking or steaming your finished garments.
This sets their shape and stitches by being stretched out on a flat surface and drying.
Blocking evens the stitches and increases the level of drape. It can be used on lacework, sweaters, hats, scarves, mittens and socks.
Blocking can only be applied to natural fibers. There’s a technique for synthetic fibers called ‘Killing’. The finished product of adds more drape to a knitted acrylic fabric.
Blocking is used before sewing knitted pieces together. When you’ve finished sewing everything together, you can steam block the seams for a lovely finish.
Some knitters prefer to block after they’ve finished their garment. For example when knitting a sweater in the round.
All The Wonderful Reasons to Block
- Blocking straightens stitches and evens the tension in your knitting. It defines intricate patterns and relaxes the stitches. For example, a complicated cable pattern. Purling is often looser on one side than the knit stitches on the other. By blocking your pieces and pinning them down to dry, you relax the yarn and dry it evenly.
- When working a lace pattern it’s important to block to open up the design. The stitches look better.
- A good soaking washes excess dye from the yarn.
- Blocking improves your knitting by creating a smooth, flat look. Knitting projects get crumpled or wrinkled when we’re working on them!
- If you have pets a good soak will remove unwanted hair. Be aware pets seemed are very attracted to knitting when it’s being blocked.
Do I have To Block My Knitting?
You don’t have to. If there’s no adjustment or finishing that needs to be done with blocking, go ahead.
Don’t block yarns like lurex (a metallic yarn) or novelty yarns.
Things To Be Aware Of When Blocking Your Knitting
Most yarns spring back when you pull them. Think of when you put a sweater on. The garment stretches over your shoulders but bounces back to hug your body.
Over-blocking makes the yarn lose it’s bounce. This causes too much drape and flattens out textured stitches like cables. Remember to go gently and carefully.
Material & Equipment
- Sink or clean bucket
- Rust proof T-Pins
Don’t use white fluffy towels (due to dye transfer while blocking). Use older clean towels instead.
Nice to have
- Wool Wash or Baby Shampoo
- Blocking Mats
- Stainless Steel Blocking Wires
Blocking Mats / Blocking Boards
A blocking mat is a great choice. Some have grid markings to help you measure. Blocking mats are made of foamy material, easy to pin into.
Most are made from foam tiles that fit together to make a complete board.
Knit Picks has blocking mats that pack up into a carry case. They come in a pack of nine. The foam mats are half an inch thick and each measures 12 x12 inches.
One side is textured and the other is smooth with a printed 1 inch grid.
Red Suricata Blocking Mats
Red Suricata Blocking Mats have a side with and inch grid and the reverse side with a centimeter grid. The assembled blocking mat grid is 35 inches x 35 inches on the Imperial side and 90cm x 90cm on the Metric side.
The puzzle piece edges snap together to make a larger board of varying sizes. Perfect for sweaters, shawls, hats, mittens and even long scarves.
Use one mat for smaller projects like mittens and hats or to block swatches to check your gauge.Click to Learn More / Buy from Amazon
No Blocking Mat? No problem!
If you don’t have a blocking mat stored somewhere in your secret yarn stash, don’t panic. You can use almost any flat surface!
Here are some tips.
Tip 1 – Use The Right Surface For The Right Garment
A table laid with towels or a kitchen bench is great for garments that can be put into place by hand, no pins necessary.
If you’re trying to block a lace project, such as a shawl, you’ll need to pin it out on a foam or cork bulletin board, cushioned with towels.
Tip 2 – Don’t Use A Surface You Use In Everyday Life.
Your knitting has to dry for a while. Put your knitting somewhere out of the way. The surface gets damp, don’t use a surface that will mark with moisture.
Stainless Steel Blocking Wires
These wires straighten out edges of shawls. There are also flexible blocking wires for knitting, great for curves on shawls. These aren’t essential but useful.
An alternative for straight edges is the String Method.
A long length of smooth scrap yarn threaded through a darning needle and the yarn is threaded along the edges.
Here are recommendations for blocking wires:
Lace Blocking Wires by Knit Picks
The Knit Picks Lace Blocking Wires Set comes with 15 (34.5 inch/880mm long) straight wires (15 refers to the thickness of the wire), 20 nickel-plated T-pins and blocking instructions. All wires are stainless steel and rust-proof.
TIP- The first time you use your blocking wires, wipe them with a soft cloth to remove manufacturing residue.
Take Personally Knit Blocking Wires
This kit made in the USA contains:
- Twelve 36 inch rigid wires
- Two 24 inch flex wires
- Twenty steel T pins
- Wire blocking instructions
- Sturdy storage tube
- Measuring tape
Sock blockers are handy tools! They leave your socks stretched out, no pins needed!
There are many talented crafters who make beautiful sock blockers.
You can also DIY your own sock blockers using a coat hanger, although these not as beautiful.
These wooden sock blockers by LaGrave Store on Etsy have cutouts of sheep. Adorable! Made from 4mm plywood, the sanded front, back and edges means your knitted socks won’t snag.
If you’re trying to block a garment, the best pins for blocking knitting are T-pins. Sewing pins work just as well, make sure they’re rust-free.
Knit Picks T Pins made from nickel plated steel are rust resistant and 1.5 inches long. Perfect for all garments and shawls.
Knitters Pride Knit Blockers Set
12 blockers with 8 pins and 8 blockers with 4 pins.
The blocking squares are made of a dense type of plastic that is also sturdy.The pins are rust resistant and stainless steel.
Wool Wash keeps your knit squeaky clean, and smelling great!
Such brands are Soak Wash where you don’t have to rinse out with water.
If you don’t have wool wash, use mild baby shampoo or delicate dish soap. Remember you’ll need to rinse with clean water once or twice.
Hannah from Knit Picks Recommends this non-toxic and eco-friendly wash.
On a flat surface, a blocking mat is ideal. Pin the knitted item around the edges, placing the pins at an angle, with the top of the pin pointing away from the garment.
Place the first in the top center, moving to the bottom center as you pin the piece to the correct length.
Pin your work to the correct width (if blocking a sweater, start with the bust width). Fill in around the edges, always referring to your finished measurements.
Blocking Tips For Different Fibers
- Natural fibers like wool & alpaca benefit most from full wash blocking
- For delicate items like angora, cashmere, mohair and wool blends and acrylic and synthetics, knitters recommend spritz/spray blocking. (This is like the washing method, but you spritz the fabric with a spray bottle than soaking completely.)
- Steam blocking is an alternative method using heat and moisture. Never use a heat method on silk, too delicate. This method is good for cotton and linen.
How Do I Block Acrylic Yarn?
Yes! Remember though…
Spray block acrylic yarn. If you want to change the drap of your acrylic garment the method of “Killing” can be applied.
‘Killing’ is when you steam block acrylic yarn.
Grab your acrylic work, and lay it on the ironing board.
Once you’ve ‘killed’ a garment, you can’t restore it to it’s original shape. Be sure that you want to apply this technique.
How To Block Knitting: Blocking Methods
Three main blocking techniques you can use.
This method is washing the knitted item by immersing it in water and letting it soak to relax the fibers. Also known as Immersion Blocking.
Reasons Why Wet Blocking Is the preferred method of many knitters:
- Giving yarn a wash rinses away any residue.
- If using a dyed yarn, sometimes there’s excess dye. Soaking your knitting helps the fiber release the extra dye.
- Blocking’s main purpose is to relax the fiber and stitches. The settling process evens out flaws and defines the stitch pattern.
- A garment hangs nicely on the body.
- Get the right fit! In most patterns, particularly sweaters, the intended fit happens after you block. That’s why gauge swatches are meant to be blocked as well. It shows you how the garment behaves after you’ve blocked it.
- Fill a sink or bucket with lukewarm water.
- Squirt some Wool Wash or baby shampoo into a sink/bucket.
- Give it a good mix.
- Place your knit in the sink/bucket, make sure it’s nice and wet.
- Leave it while it soaks, don’t dunk it.
- Let it soak for 10-30 mins depending on the fiber you’ve used.
- While your knit is soaking, start setting up.
- Grab a older towel from your cupboard.
- Lay it out on a chosen surface.
- If you’re using a blocking mat, you may want to interlock more than one, depending on the size of your garment.
- Return to the sink/bucket, drain away the water
- Squeeze your knit (don’t wring!) to get out as much water. Be gentle.
- Place in a soft dry towel. Roll up the towel to get any extra moisture out of your work.
- Stomping on the rolled up towel will help remove extra water.
- Lay your knitted pieces on the blocking mat/towel
- Stretch out to the desired length and width.
- Grab some t-pins (or rust proof sewing pins) pin every few inches around the perimeter.
- Make sure your knitted pieces are pinned or placed in the desired way.
- Leave your knit to dry. This can take up to 1-2 days.
How Do You Block A Knitted Sweater?
Follow the wet blocking steps above. The only difference is you block the whole sweater, not individual pieces.
For those blocking seamless sweaters, this is how to block knitting in the round.
TIP: It’s best to sew in your ends after you block a sweater. You don’t want the ends to wriggle out when the fabric changes after blocking.
You’ll need more than 1 towel to remove excess water.
Pin out on blocking mats to the desired length and width.
Sometimes your knitted sweater may need ‘aggressive’ blocking. This is when you want to open up a lace/cable design. In addition to pinning, blocking wires are placed on either side of the sleeves and on either side of the body.
If your garment is too ‘skinny’ width wise or short length wise, blocking helps.
Stretch the piece more aggressively in one or the other dimension, you can coax it into a better fit! It won’t work miracles but knit fabric (especially wool) is quite flexible. Definitely worth trying.
12″ Blocking Mats
Soak Wash – Travel Pack Assorted
Knit Picks Lint Shaver
How To Block A Knitted Shawl
A knitted shawl takes many hours to knit.
When you’ve finished, it often looks all crumpled and the design isn’t defined. The beautiful stitch designs are enhanced by blocking.
It opens up lace patterns, smooths out and relaxes the yarn. Letting stitches shine in all their glory!
Be prepared to set aside an hour or so to block a shawl. Well worth it!
Blocking mats are helpful for pinning your shawl as they can be made into different shapes. Depending on how big your shawl is, 2 sets of blocking mats may be required.
Wet blocking method is best for blocking a knitted shawl.
- After binding off, sew in your ends.
- Soak your shawl in lukewarm water in a bucket or laundry sink for 15-20 mins. Adding a no rinse detergent like Soak is a good idea.
- Once soaked, remove from water and press out as much water as you can with your hands. Pressing it against the side of the bucket or sink will get a good lot of water out.
- Place on a dry towel and gently roll up. Don’t wring it out. Rather stomp on the towel with clean feet to remove excess water. You many need more than 1 dry towel.
- Lay your shawl out on your blocking surface. Blocking mats are great but if you don’t have these a dry towel, clean carpet or a bed will do.
- Block with pins and/or wires. Blocking wires are fabulous for the straight edges and spine of your shawl.
- If using a triangular shawl, pin the spine first and carefully place around the edges.
- Once the corners are pinned, assess whether the shawl is stretched enough. If not, pull it a bit further in each direction for a better look.
- Pin out the scalloped edges if your design has these. It’ll be obvious from your shawl design which points need to be pulled out and pinned.
- If unsure look back to the image of the finished pattern.
- Leave your shawl to fully dry. If you remove pins too early and the shawl is not 100% dry, all your hard work won’t turn out well.
- Remember during the drying process, fibers shrink and pull together, more and more tension will be put on the pins. As your shawl drys, continue to check it to see if any pins have popped out and need to be reinserted.
- When completely dry, remove all the pins and celebrate all your amazing hard work.
- Relish the moment of draping your beautifully blocked shawl over your shoulders for the first time. Be sure to take a picture!
How To Block A Large Knitted Blanket
First of all congratulations, you’ve completed a lot of knitting! Perhaps it has taken a whole year or more. Well done!
Set aside at least a couple of hours to block it.
Weather is a factor. If you live in a place with dry sunny days, these are perfect for blocking a large blanket outside on a big sheet.
If outside drying is is not possible you’ll need a big space, like a carpeted floor or a spare bed and some fans to help it dry.
You follow the same method of wet blocking.
After soaking, squeezing out excess water with (many towels) use flexible wires and start threading them through the edges.
Layout your blanket on your desired surface and start pinning the corners. Use a tape measure to check all sides are smoothed to the right dimensions.
Stick a pin the blanket’s center. Measure until you find the longest distance from pin to side.
Make sure all distances have the same measurement. Make sure the corners are 90 degrees.
Keep smoothing and stretching out gently, pinning the edges until everything looks and measures out correctly.
Leave until absolutely dry. Remove the pins and celebrate!
Grab a cup of something and snuggle underneath your blanket.
How To Block a Hat
A neat trick for blocking hats!
Block over the underside of a bowl. Balance the upturned bowl over a cylindrical object that will support the bowl. Stand on a flat surface.
Misting or Spray Blocking
Misting is an excellent option if you’re a beginner or unsure how it will turn out.
Step 1 – Lay your newly finished work onto a soft towel. Put the towel on a surface suggested above.
Step 2 – Grab a clean mist bottle, and lightly mist your work.
Step 3 – When slightly damp, gently pull your knit into the finished/desired measurements.
If your knit is not staying, pin it out on a blocking board.
This blocking technique is a gentle method that doesn’t require you to soak your knit. You only need a steam iron.
- Steam Iron
- Blocking Mats
Step 1 – Place your knitted piece on the blocking mat and pin it using T-Pins.
Step 2 – Use the hottest setting for steam on your iron, go over the knitted piece WITHOUT pressing down. That’s really important!
Step 3. After steaming, flatten out any wonky stitches.
If you used stockinette stitch, flip your knitting and pin it to the board so your purl rows are facing up. Steam, this will help with the ends curling in.
Step 5. Let the pieces cool down and you’re ready to sew.
How To Block A Scarf
Steam blocking works beautifully for scarves if the stitch definition is not complicated.
Pin out your scarf or use a blocking wires so that the edges are straight and the overall fabric is smoothed out. Follow the steam blocking instructions.
If your scarf design has intricate lace or cables, wet blocking is a better method to show off the amazing stitch definition and open up the lace design. Follow the wet blocking instructions above.
Now you’re more familiar with how to block knitting, it’s worth seeing which technique works best for you.
If you have any questions or if I’ve missed something, let me know in the comments.